MMM’15 Week 1 Round Up

Though I didn’t really plan it, this week saw many old favorites!

Day One 5/1/15: Colette Monetta hack. I added a color blocked waistband and cowl neck to the basic pattern.

Day Two 5/2/15 : Colette Monetta straight from the package. I wear this dress a LOT.

Day Three 5/3/15: Colette Monetta deja vu. Worn at Biltmore Estate to see the Dressing Downton exhibit!

Day Four 5/4/15: Kate and Rose Patterns Roza blouse. Added gingham lace embroidery to the front.

Day Five 5/5/15: Colette Oslo cardigan. This is from the December 2014 issue of Seamwork Magazine.

Day Six 5/6/15: Cake Patterns Cabarita top. Originally made for July 4th baseball viewing but I typically wear all summer.

Day Seven 5/7/15: Old Navy Tee embroidered with Anna Maria Horner design

Nothing new this week but everything I wore is much loved. How did your first week of Me Made May go?

One Week One Pattern Round Up

This was my first year participating in the One Week One Pattern challenge and I must say it was nice to wear some clothes that are not in my normal rotation. I chose to wear my Roza tops from Kate and Rose Patterns. I ended up wearing four blouses on five separate days.

Day 1 (Saturday 9/6) & Day 7 (Friday 9/12): I wore my University of South Carolina Roza. It is football season after all!

Day 2 (Monday 9/8): No Roza 😦

Day 3 (Monday 9/8): I wore my Gingham Embroidery Roza

Day 4 (Tuesday 9/9): I wore my Birthday Roza.

Day 5 (Wednesday 9/10): No Roza 😦

Day 6: (Thursday 9/11): I wore my Monogram Roza

This pattern is such a great starting point for all kinds of creativity. I recently developed an interest in smocking so I think my next Roza may incorporate that technique. Thanks Jane for coordinating the challenge. Can’t wait until next year!

Pattern Hack: Colette Moneta

Though everyone in the sewing blogosphere has probably already sewn at least one Moneta, I must say this is a wonderful pattern! Not only does the new expanded size range fit without significant grading, the design is a great base of many modifications.

My first Moneta was made from the original pattern and I’ve worn it extensively in the month since I completed it.

It is my latest Moneta that I want to share today. This Moneta hack has some pretty details that make it the perfect dress to transition into the cooler months whenever they see fit to show up here in South Carolina!

The two main modifications were to add a contrasting waistband and to add a cowl neckline. The waistband was a necessary “design feature” due to the lack of stretch in my fabric. This knit is super thick and after cutting the bodice I realized the bodice was a bit short. My simple fix was to add a solid black two inch wide waistband. I first added the waistband to the bodice then shirred the bodice to the skirt.

The second modification was to add a cowl neck. I used this tutorial from Sweet Verbena as a guideline and I think the final result is fabulous!

Pattern Review: Colette Patterns Myrtle Dress

As with the previous two Colette pattern releases, the Myrtle dress is designed for knits and ranges from XS to 3XL. I am so happy to finally be able to simply stitch up a pattern without having to do a significant amount of mind bending math and grading.

The pattern has a few lovely design features. Most notable is the wide draped neckline and shoulder tabs. My version was made with a lovely floral knit fabric I snagged from Girl Charlee during their 40% off sale over the July 4th holiday.

Things I liked about the pattern:

• It comes in my size range!
• The bodice draping was interesting. The front bodice piece is very long and actually drapes onto itself to become self lined.
• Button tab shoulders

Things I struggled with and modified:

• The waistband just did not work for me. The instructions state to fold down part of the bodice to create a casing but the result was NOT pretty. I ended up taking that out then simply zigzag stitching a piece of elastic to the seam where the bodice and skirt came together. The result was not perfect but looked better than my first attempt.
• The bodice ended up being a bit short. Next time I will add 2 inches to the bodice length so the dress sits closer to my natural waist. I must note that I am pretty short waisted so for others the bodice may need to be lengthened even more.
• Overall length of the skirt. I added about 4 inches which is a common modification for me on Colette patterns. I’m almost 5’8″ and don’t typically wear dresses above my knees. This is my personal preference and I want to be able to wear them to work.
• I started with the pockets but thought they added to much bulk at the hips so later took them out and simply stitched up the sides.

Overall I really like how the dress came out. It is comfortable and can easily be dressed up or down depending upon what shoes and cardi I wear. There is definitely another Myrtle in my future!

Pattern Review: In House Patterns Blossom Blouse

The In House Blossom pattern had been languishing in my stash for well over a year but after recently scoring a yard of Nancy Ann Liberty of London fabric, I knew I had to try it out.

I love Liberty Tana Lawn fabric but due to the cost, don’t get to sew with it as much as I would like. As soon as I saw this fabric on eBay, I remembered where I had seen it before…on Mad Men!

I may not be as beautiful or famous as Betty Draper, aka January Jones, but I think my interpretation came out well!  If you ever have the opportunity to try In House Patterns, give them a whirl. This is actually my second In House pattern. The first was the Cool Cowl reviewed here and I think you will find their patterns to be easy to follow and fairly quick makes.

Pattern Details: Size ranges from 32 to 42 bust so I graded up to a 48. I also increased the waist and hip pieces by grading out the side seams. All In House Patterns are pdf only which in my opinion makes grading much easier.

Things I liked about the pattern:

1. Instructions were very clear and logical
2. Grading was easy due to the pattern piece layout
3. No FBA required because the pattern can be printed in A, B, C, or D cup sizes!!!

Things I struggled with:

1. Sleeves! Since my upper arms were far outside the size range, I initially tried to grade up with zero success.
2. I later tried tulip sleeves but could not make them fit comfortably so I finally gave up and made some bias tape from my remaining fabric and opted for a sleeveless version.
3. The front curve at the neckline ended up a bit wonky due to my less than perfect cutting. This type of neckline requires PRECISE cutting to remain even. My solution was to make some ties so there is a keyhole detail instead of a simple vee. I actually ended up liking my final version better than the original so my “design feature” worked out!

Pattern Review: Jennifer Lauren Vintage Bronte Top

After my success with the Afternoon Blouse, I was excited to see another vintage inspired top from Jen and I knew this one would be perfect for my upcoming July 4th parties.

Unlike the Afternoon Blouse, the Bronte Top pattern is intended for knit fabrics. As a relative newcomer to sewing with knits, my first attempt is by no means perfect but has already seen heavy rotation in the three weeks since I sewed it up. I have another version planned soon!

Things I liked:
1) Tiling of the pattern allows you to print specific pieces
2) Long sleeve and short sleeve versions
3) Very clear instructions!
4) Button details at the collar can really showcase unique buttons. I used vintage buttons I got for 50 cents at a quilt show a few years ago and I love them.

Things I had issues with:
1) The sleeves were a bit short for me so I had to lengthen the fold over part. Heather had the similar sleeve length problems which she provided a super helpful tutorial here.
2) Keeping the front neckline from stretching out was a big issue. I think next time I will make the neckline binding an inch shorter so the neckline lies more flat.
3) Easing the sleeves was hard for me and I didn’t get it quite right. The very top of the sleeve pokes up a bit but not so much that I won’t wear the top.

 

 

 

 

MMM14 Week 2 Round Up

Week 2 of Me Made May reintroduced me to some garments I hadn’t worn in a while. Funny how this challenge makes you rethink your everyday wardrobe choices!

Thursday, May 7: Colette Mabel skirt, review here

Friday, May 9: Kate & Rose Roza Blouse in honor of JD Clowney from the University of South Carolina (my alma mater) being drafted #1 in the NFL draft, review here

Saturday, May 10: A repeat of my navy and white polka dot Mabel skirt

Sunday, May 11: Unfortunately I only wore RTW 😦

Monday, May 12: Jamie Christina Miz Mozelle dress, review here

Tuesday, May 13: Kay White Sew Serendipity dress, review here

Wednesday, May 14: Colette Sorbetto, review here

Kate & Rose Giselle Pattern Review

I have been a fan of Kati’s since I first tried her Roza pattern so when she asked me to be a pattern tester for the Giselle dress I immediately jumped on board!

The Giselle dress is part of the Midtown Collection and features two versions on a traditional European style. There are two variations to the sleeves, skirt and midriff so the possibilities are endless!

 

My beta version, which I dubbed the Luck of the Irish dress, is made out of thin cotton lawn. I used the skirt length from version 1 and opted for the narrow midriff and no sleeves. Even though my measurements are outside of the size range, the grading was straightforward and within a few hours, I had a lovely dress for spring!

Since I had so much success with my first version, I chose to use the Giselle pattern for my Dolly Clackett Mini Me dress. The fabric was somewhat sheer so I lined the bodice and add piping along the bustline. This version was reviewed here.

My latest version, gives a nod to summer with a blue and white seersucker cotton and contrasting bias at the neckline. The fabric is much thicker than the previous two versions so the gathering is more pronounced but I actually think this is my favorite version yet!

If three Giselles were not enough, I have a fourth in mind that highlights the midriff with embroidered floral designs from Kati’s Faraway Garden hot iron transfer pack. This pattern has so many embellishment options, it might overtake my TNT Roza as number one in my book!

Dolly Clackett Mini Me? Yeah Baby!!!

Sarah of Rhinestones and Telephones decided to host a Dolly Clackett Sewing contest in honor of Nic and Roisin’s upcoming wedding. Unless you live under a rock, I’m sure you’ve seen all the lovely dresses Roisin wannabes have been posting lately.

The rules were simple and only required you to sew a dress similar to something Roisin would wear. The contest ends today so without further ado, please check out my “Dolly Clacket Mini Me” dress!

Roisin is probably best known for her cheerful printed fabric and gathered skirt dresses. She is going to Paris for her honeymoon so has been whipping up Eiffel Tower dresses like mad. In honor of her traveling spirit and my upcoming trip to Italy, I decided my Mini Me dress would require an Italian print fabric. I found the perfect choice at Hawthorne Threads. The fabric is from the Dear Stella Va Bene collection and includes many famous attractions from around Italy. Isn’t it wonderful?

The dress pattern is an upcoming release from Kate and Rose I was lucky enough to pattern test. I will do a proper review once Kati releases the pattern but can tell you now this is already a TNT pattern for me and will see heavy rotation in the coming months!

Jennifer Lauren Afternoon Blouse Pattern Review

First I must apologize for being remiss in naming the winners of the Kate and Rose hot iron transfers so without further delay, they are Bea and Anneke! Please send me your mailing addresses and I will get them in the mail post haste!

Now onto my review of the first pattern from Jennifer Lauren Vintage: The Afternoon Blouse. I was immediately sold after seeing Jane and Tasha’s versions. The Afternoon Blouse is loosely based on a 1940’s style blouse with kimono sleeves and a front closure. The pattern is aptly named as even for a slow sewer like me, I still finished within a few hours.

The pattern is sold in pdf format and unlike most pdf patterns, is tiled so you don’t have to print all the pieces at once. This is especially helpful since there are two front closure variations. I chose to make the rounded front closure version and only had to make a slight grade to the bust area to fit my 48″ bust measurements. Since the blouse is intended to fit over your head without zippers or buttons, the overall shape is loose. I am a pear shape so the shape fit wonderfully without significant changes.

I also love the fact that there are only four pattern pieces: front, back, neck facing, and front facing. It took me about an hour to put the pattern together, make my grading changes, and cut the pieces out. Jen’s instructions are super clear and easy to follow and with the exception of the bottom of the front closure being a bit “fiddly”, the blouse was a joy to sew.

I enjoyed making the blouse so much, I made two! The first one used some rose suiting from my stash and the second was made from a yard of Liberty of London Wiltshire. Since I only had a yard the facings were some white lining from my stash.  These blouses also cover my April challenge over at The Monthly Stitch which required me to sew at least two versions of the same pattern. Even though I have sewn two,  I see more Afternoon Blouses in my future!